Helmschmied
Sep 21st, 2001, 02:28:55 PM
I started this a reply to the stormtrooper mannequin thread, but realized it was a bit long. This tutorial will help you make a really nice mannequin for your costumes.
My mannequins are molds I took off a very well proportioned 6ft friend of mine....no goofy fashion poses either...hes just standing at attention. Only downside is that the mannequin takes about a two weeks to assemble as I have to wait for the materials to dry and assemble the halves.
For what its worth, here is the method:
First get the model. They have to be in their skivies cuz you may need to cut the underwear off if the plaster sticks to the material...this is always preferable if you are working with members of the opposite sex, who happen to be attractive.
Next, slather the areas to be covered in baby oil, vasoline, or coconut oil. DEFINATELY DONT SKIP THIS STEP. If you are working with a fellow member of your own sex, consider strongly allowing them to do this step themselves....unless your inclination is...ah...well...moving on...
I use medical grade casting plaster bandages for the mother mold....CUT ALL bandages about 16" long AHEAD OF TIME.
Get a bin or bucket of hot water.....dip each strip in.. building the mother mold up in alternate layers for strength. I strongly recommed taking a sharpie marker and drawing seam or halve lines up and down the area to be molded. This allows you to apply plater up to the seam without covering it, making removal of the halves INFINATELY easier. You may need a single strip to help hold the halves together as they are drying and the model gets fidgety standing there.
When dry, after about 30-45 min. carefully cut any single layer connector strips and open it up. IMMEDIATELY seal it back up to dry carefully.
Wait a few days so the plaster dries completely.
Next, as you separate the halves..you may need to apply a sinlge layer of plaster over the edges to keep the plaster mother mold from fraying...especially if you had to cut it a bit to open it.
Now...when the halves are dry....get some BOWLING ALLEY WAX.....slather this crap all inside the plaster mold.
Then get some burlap....cut it into roughly 12" X 4" strips. Get some Elmers glue or similar make. DONT USE contact cement--trust me, lol.
Wipe glue everywhere on the inside of the mold...assuming youve spread the WAX first. Then apply the strips of burlap and use a firm brush or equivalent to spread the glue over the burlap, making sure to allow the glue underneath that you just spread to seep up through the 'pours' in the burlap. Keep building up in an alternate fashion, just like fiberglass. Each time you add a new piece of burlap, make an attempt to press it down into the layer below it, so it absorbs the glue...you may need to add a bit of glue to ensure the burlap is soaked in glue...BUT DONT USE TOO MUCH, cuz it will take forever to dry.
When youve built up about 3 layers of burlap...let it sit and sit and sit. Give it about a week. Hence it behooves you to get as many halves done during a single day so you dont have to wait forever as each new piece dries.
After a week....take a sharpie marker OR a can of spray paint and, flipping the mother over, 'draw' or 'shoot' a line along the edge of the mother and overhanging burlap so you can see where to trim the burlap positive. Then slowly pull the dried burlap positive model out...it should pull out easily if you used the WAX on the plaster mother. Trim quickly.
Next get some contact cement....apply some to the inside of the halves and use its properties to help align and hold the pieces together...this is NOT a perfect science, so you may also have to use some DUCT TAPE to help secure the outside of the newly aligned halves. Depending on the size and diameter of the halves to be attached, I will also use burlap and glue strips to bridge over the seam where you may have just applied the burlap and contact cement strips. Basically the idea is to try and secure the the halves together using as much connective 'force' as possible, so the halves dont burst on ya.
Well, if you are successful, you have just done your first mannequin part. I like to use plywood contour pieces for strength. I also drill holes and run inner support poles on the inside. The plywood contour is easily secured by drilling screws through the hardened burlap surface into the side of the plywood. Again, its not a perfect science, but its easy to work with and can be forgiving. Oh, some recommend using fiberglass RESIN over the burlap mannequin cuz you can sand it and paint it. Ive never bothered unless my mannequin might be near water...water and elmers dont mix but Ive never had a problem. You can also use a heat gun or hairdryer to temporarily melt the glue and open or close the burlap mannequin half
I also recommend you get a pipe bender and hose clamps (for cars). Now imagine the pipe going through the hole in the plywood contour. How you you keep the mannequin from sliding up and down on the pipe??? Well, I take 1/2" strips of metal which I drill holes (for screws) through at each end. I bend the srips of metal into a rougly 90 degree shape. I screw about two strips into the plywood so that the bent piece is aligned with the pipe. I then use the hose clamp to encircle the pipe and metal strips....and tighten like you would your pursestrings in any good recession. This should keep the plywood/mannequin from moving.
So there ya have it. Be creative. Sorry I dont have pix...maybe when I do my next mannequin. The nice thing about doing this is that it allows you to make up your own posing positions to mold up and gives a real anatomic look to your mannequin.
EDITORS NOTE: I think I used halve and half interchangably...and my spelling is "atroshus," lol. Mea culpa.
Again, good luck
Helmschmied
My mannequins are molds I took off a very well proportioned 6ft friend of mine....no goofy fashion poses either...hes just standing at attention. Only downside is that the mannequin takes about a two weeks to assemble as I have to wait for the materials to dry and assemble the halves.
For what its worth, here is the method:
First get the model. They have to be in their skivies cuz you may need to cut the underwear off if the plaster sticks to the material...this is always preferable if you are working with members of the opposite sex, who happen to be attractive.
Next, slather the areas to be covered in baby oil, vasoline, or coconut oil. DEFINATELY DONT SKIP THIS STEP. If you are working with a fellow member of your own sex, consider strongly allowing them to do this step themselves....unless your inclination is...ah...well...moving on...
I use medical grade casting plaster bandages for the mother mold....CUT ALL bandages about 16" long AHEAD OF TIME.
Get a bin or bucket of hot water.....dip each strip in.. building the mother mold up in alternate layers for strength. I strongly recommed taking a sharpie marker and drawing seam or halve lines up and down the area to be molded. This allows you to apply plater up to the seam without covering it, making removal of the halves INFINATELY easier. You may need a single strip to help hold the halves together as they are drying and the model gets fidgety standing there.
When dry, after about 30-45 min. carefully cut any single layer connector strips and open it up. IMMEDIATELY seal it back up to dry carefully.
Wait a few days so the plaster dries completely.
Next, as you separate the halves..you may need to apply a sinlge layer of plaster over the edges to keep the plaster mother mold from fraying...especially if you had to cut it a bit to open it.
Now...when the halves are dry....get some BOWLING ALLEY WAX.....slather this crap all inside the plaster mold.
Then get some burlap....cut it into roughly 12" X 4" strips. Get some Elmers glue or similar make. DONT USE contact cement--trust me, lol.
Wipe glue everywhere on the inside of the mold...assuming youve spread the WAX first. Then apply the strips of burlap and use a firm brush or equivalent to spread the glue over the burlap, making sure to allow the glue underneath that you just spread to seep up through the 'pours' in the burlap. Keep building up in an alternate fashion, just like fiberglass. Each time you add a new piece of burlap, make an attempt to press it down into the layer below it, so it absorbs the glue...you may need to add a bit of glue to ensure the burlap is soaked in glue...BUT DONT USE TOO MUCH, cuz it will take forever to dry.
When youve built up about 3 layers of burlap...let it sit and sit and sit. Give it about a week. Hence it behooves you to get as many halves done during a single day so you dont have to wait forever as each new piece dries.
After a week....take a sharpie marker OR a can of spray paint and, flipping the mother over, 'draw' or 'shoot' a line along the edge of the mother and overhanging burlap so you can see where to trim the burlap positive. Then slowly pull the dried burlap positive model out...it should pull out easily if you used the WAX on the plaster mother. Trim quickly.
Next get some contact cement....apply some to the inside of the halves and use its properties to help align and hold the pieces together...this is NOT a perfect science, so you may also have to use some DUCT TAPE to help secure the outside of the newly aligned halves. Depending on the size and diameter of the halves to be attached, I will also use burlap and glue strips to bridge over the seam where you may have just applied the burlap and contact cement strips. Basically the idea is to try and secure the the halves together using as much connective 'force' as possible, so the halves dont burst on ya.
Well, if you are successful, you have just done your first mannequin part. I like to use plywood contour pieces for strength. I also drill holes and run inner support poles on the inside. The plywood contour is easily secured by drilling screws through the hardened burlap surface into the side of the plywood. Again, its not a perfect science, but its easy to work with and can be forgiving. Oh, some recommend using fiberglass RESIN over the burlap mannequin cuz you can sand it and paint it. Ive never bothered unless my mannequin might be near water...water and elmers dont mix but Ive never had a problem. You can also use a heat gun or hairdryer to temporarily melt the glue and open or close the burlap mannequin half
I also recommend you get a pipe bender and hose clamps (for cars). Now imagine the pipe going through the hole in the plywood contour. How you you keep the mannequin from sliding up and down on the pipe??? Well, I take 1/2" strips of metal which I drill holes (for screws) through at each end. I bend the srips of metal into a rougly 90 degree shape. I screw about two strips into the plywood so that the bent piece is aligned with the pipe. I then use the hose clamp to encircle the pipe and metal strips....and tighten like you would your pursestrings in any good recession. This should keep the plywood/mannequin from moving.
So there ya have it. Be creative. Sorry I dont have pix...maybe when I do my next mannequin. The nice thing about doing this is that it allows you to make up your own posing positions to mold up and gives a real anatomic look to your mannequin.
EDITORS NOTE: I think I used halve and half interchangably...and my spelling is "atroshus," lol. Mea culpa.
Again, good luck
Helmschmied