You all knew this was going to happen...

[Khendon Sevon]

Okay, maybe you didn't.

In fact, maybe you have no clue what I'm alluding to. That's probably the case. Hmm... there might not be even one of you that can figure out what's about to come next in this post. C'est la vie.

2 AM and I feel like posting about this. So, here it goes:

Pico de Orizaba.

Pico de Orizaba? Pico de Orizaba! What's that?

Well, at 18,490 ft (5,636 m) it's the tallest peak in Mexico. That puts it at the third tallest in North America.

Wait a second, wait a second... what am I talking about? What am I going to do?

Well, people who follow my random ramblings will know I rock climb. They probably will know I do a lot of hiking. What they might not know is that I also ice climb.

My mentor, John, has climbed all the high peaks in the US. That includes McKinley (Denali) in Alaska (tallest peak in North America).

So, this winter I will be flying to Mexico City with 4 other climbers (current count). We'll be carrying 4 season tents, -15 degree sleeping bags, stoves, all sorts of gear I don't know about and much more.

I have to buy:
- Straight shaft mountaineering tool (axe)
- Mountaineering plastic boots
- -15 Sleeping Bag (I only have a 20 degree right now, not nearly good enough for a glacier)
- Crampons

That's around $600 of gear. Ish. ($100 axe, $100 crampons, $200 boots, $200 bag give or take).

I'll be bringing (from gear I own):
- North Face Hard Shell Parka
- North Face Hard Shell Pants
- Mountain Hardware Fleece
- Black Diamond Mountaineering Gauntlets
- Black Diamond PolarTec (? I think) Gloves (Go inside my gauntlets)
- CiloGear 45L WorkSack
- Metolius Safe-Tech Harness

and I'm sure I'll throw my new light weight sunglasses, a 2 person first aid kit, and some other junk in there (a camera, maybe, haha).

So, we'll be staying at the highest village in North America, too. Just to add to the fun. Then we'll take a car to base camp and we'll make our summit attempt from there.

John has been to the mountain three times so far (all alone). The first time, he wasn't feeling great and turned back. Second time, he ended up doing some technical, scary climbing, the weather went south, and he bailed. The third time, someone else on the mountain got pulmonary edema and John rescued him. So, John said he's conquering the mountain this time. No matter what. (that's the reason he's bringing friends).

Who else is going?

John, one of John's friends, Ed (a physics professor at my college), JP (my climbing partner). That's it. Five people on an epic trek to challenge ourselves.

This winter.

We find out Nov 1st if the trip will be "go" or not. I'm psyched :)

Erm...

End rant.

[Wyl Staedtler]

Sounds vera cool, dude. :D

[Lilaena De'Ville]

Don't die please.

[Khendon Sevon]

I promise not to die. It's not in my itinerary.

[Loklorien s'Ilancy]

Have fun :)

And take pictures!

[Peter McCoy]

And when you reach the summit you have - have... HAVE to shout 'I can see my house from here!!!" - it's a rule.

No really.

[Natia Telcontar]

Have fun and yes, take pictures, pictures, and more pictures.

[Khendon Sevon]

And when you reach the summit you have - have... HAVE to shout 'I can see my house from here!!!" - it's a rule.

No really.

Haha! I sooo would!!!

But, you know, I've been taught only to yell if it's an emergency or if it's the only way to be heard. You never want to wrongly give anyone the impression that you're in trouble.

And, well, at 18,000 feet, every lungful takes effort.

[Khendon Sevon]

So, Orizaba is a go.

Gear purchased so far:

$293.21 - Mountain Hardware Lyell SL -15 Sleeping Bag, Long, Right Zip, Down

It's about 3lbs, which is amazingly light. Plus, it can handle -15F weather, which is perfect for Orizaba.

To go:
- Plastic Boots
- Mountaineering Tool
- New Headlamp
- Crampons

[JediBeldarine]

#1 -- Awesome

#2 -- Take pictures and post them

#3 -- Good luck

#4 -- You're insane.

[Park Kraken]

Have fun, and break a leg.

Wait, don't break a leg. Definitly don't break a leg.

Or anything else.

Otherwise I would be lonely in Telan's concubine with your absence. :mischief

[Khendon Sevon]

Haha, we wouldn't want any of that, Park.

The whole breaking a leg thing would be horrible in a location where mountain rescue is... well, whoever is around to help. Like I said (I think), the party leader had to forgo his summit attempt to rescue a person with pulmonary edema one of the times he was there.

Luckily, we're all pretty fit and are level headed individuals. All of us have been in emergency situations before and have first aid training. John and JP are first responders, as well. John, of course, has taught rescue courses, outdoor leadership courses, mountaineering courses, etc. to various people and at several schools.

We're pretty safe ;)

Thanks for the luck, Beldarine ;)

[Lilaena De'Ville]

Good luck! And be safe, of course. :) AND, take lots of pictures, which I doubt will be a problem since you seem to have a camera attatched to you at all times. :mneh

[Khendon Sevon]

Haha!

It's actually screwed onto my hip with a quick release mechanism :p

JP will have a digital SLR with him, John will probably have a digital SLR with him, I will have my point and shoot, and... I don't know about anyone else, hah :)

So, I'm hoping for a whole album worth of pictures.

[Khendon Sevon]

Step one completed!

I now have tickets for Mexico City on January 5th. We'll be leaving at 6 AM and stopping off in Detroit for an hour. Then it's on to Mexico City. JP and I will be arriving at 1:11 PM.

John used his points to pay for his flight. We were going to all take the same one; but, then JP and I noticed John's flight plan would cost us $900! So, JP and I will be traveling together. We found tickets for $538.92 that travel at around the same time as John's.

Our return flight is on January 13th at 1:55pm. It's direct ;) So, we beat John getting back. We'll be landing in Newark, NJ at 7:38 PM. Not bad.

So, the dates are set.

We're going to spend the first day (Saturday, 5th) in Mexico City. Then we'll be traveling to the town near Pico de Orizaba. We'll spend a day there (6th, Mon) then head to base camp. We'll spend a day at base camp (7th, Tues) and "acclimate" (it's a lie. We don't have 2 weeks to get our bodies used to the height so we're going to climb it all before we get sick).

On Wed the 8th we'll make our push for the summit from base camp. We'll have enough food and water at base camp to weather 2 days extra of storms and mishaps.

Then we'll head back down and spend a day at the climber lodge (Th 9th). By Friday (10th) we should be back in Mexico City and completely drunk for the remainder of the trip.

Sunday (13th) we fly home :)

Monday (14th) classes for the second semester start ;) I wish I had a writing course with a "what did you do over the winter break?" assignment.

Haha.

I'm psyched.

JP is bringing a Nikon D40x and some insane 18-200mm Nikon lense. I'll be bringing my point and shoot. Expect a mountain of pictures ;)

[stevenvdb]

Of course when you reach the summit and take the requisite: "I came. I saw. I conquered." pics, they'll wisk you off to the back room for a nice toddy and foot rub.

They have good internet connectivity up there as well, I hear. ;)

But seriously, good luck.

I never really had many thoughts of climbing before- not very brave or confident of my abilities - though one day, if I get the chance before I die, I may make an attempt at Kilimanjaro. Somehow. it has a draw for me.

[Khendon Sevon]

haha, yes, indeed.

There's actually a pub on the summit.

Sadly, if you see it, it probably means you have cerebral edema ;)

I'd be up for Kilimanjaro ;) Of course, my climbing partner and I are hitting up Washington (6,288ft, EVIL weather) and McKinley (20,320ft) first. We'll see after that. McKinley is the only mountain in the US that's higher than Pico de Orizaba.

McKinely is also a 20+ day event.

[Khendon Sevon]

Just feel like keeping track of the damages:

$538.92 - Tickets
$293.21 - Mountain Hardware Lyell -15F Sleeping Bag
$84.96 - Black Diamond Raven Pro Mountaineering Axe
$13.95 - Black Diamond Lockdown Leash (for my axe)
$36.00 - Outdoor Research Gorilla Balaclava
$119.96 - Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro Crampons
$19.96 - Black Diamond Crampon & Tool Bag
$33.52 - SmartWool Mountaineer Socks (2 pairs)
$132.00 - Mountain Hardware Sub Zero Down Jacket (I told S'ilancy I was fighting the urge to buy this)
$70.00 - Snow Peak Starter Kit (titanium mug, titanium spork, GigaPower burner, all fit into the mug and you can put a fuel canister in it, too)
$60.00 - Salomon Raid Revo 20 Pack (summit pack)
$50.00 - The Northface Fleece Pants (sleeping)
$240.00 - Koflach Degre Plastic Boots (size 9)
$260.00 - Olympus Stylus 290 Digital Camera
$130.00 - Pantagonia R1 Hoody

Damages so far: $2082.48

Of course, all of this gear is getting reused on future expeditions. Mind you, I already have a ton of gear including:

- Outdoor Research Zealot Softshell Rain/Snow/Wind Jacket
- Northface Hardshell Pants
- Outdoor Research Gaiters
- Black Diamond PolarTec Thin Gloves
- Black Diamond Mountaineering Gauntlets
- CiloGear 45L Work Sack
- CamelBak Unbottle 3L Hydration Sleeve
- Couple Nalgenes (2)
- Prana Brimmed Skullcap
- Z-Lite Sleeping Pad
- Mess Fork/Knife/Spoon
- Petzl Tikka Plus
- Gerber Junior Knife

No longer bringing:
- Aluminum Mess Kit w/ Copper Components
- Arc'Teryx Sniper Fleece (not sure if I want to bring this or my Mountain Hardware Monkeyman)
- The Northface Hardshell Parka
- Marmot Reactor Zip-in Fleece Liner (for my parka)

Original Layering System Plan:
Base: Thin wool long sleeve shirt (wool is warm, wicks, and is odor controlling) (est. 7 oz)
Mid: Mountain Hardware Monkey Man Fleece (14 oz)
Mid-2nd: Marmot Reactor Fleece Zipped Into Shell (12 oz)
Outer: The Northface Hardshell Parka (est. 30 oz)

Total weight: est. 63 oz

New Layering System:
Base: Thin wool long sleeve shirt (same awesome reasons) (not sure) (est. 7 oz)
Mid: Pantagonia R1 Hoody (10.9 oz)
Outer: Mountain Hardware Sub Zero Down Jacket (27 oz)
Emergency: Outdoor Research Zealot Softshell Rain/Snow/Wind Jacket (7.7 oz)

Total weight: est. 52.6 oz

Savings: 10.4 oz (16 oz = 1 lb)

In terms of compressibility, though, the new system wins hands down. All elements can be compressed extremely small, including the down jacket. The down jacket has its own stuff sack, meaning that it will take up less space.

Lower on the mountain, I plan on not wearing the down jacket. That means that I have the option to pull on the Zealot if it's windy but not cold.

The new system offers more flexibility, less weight, and a greater degree of compression.

It only cost $260 more. Of course, all the gear will be reused on countless future expeditions/adventures.

So much gear needed... Mountaineering is not a cheap hobby.

[stevenvdb]

"Gerber Junior Knife" ? Dang they train kids to be 'survivalist' sorts early these days. ;) Let me guess, can be used to cut cords and such, but the blade edge won't accidently tear your other gear by just grazing the surface. I see you listened to your mama/guide and are using the clothing "layering" technique. Good on you.

Just a month to go and my bones are already quivering in sympathy , and I live in "Sunny California". :)

Yeah, Steven, abuse them quote marks.

[Khendon Sevon]

haha, yeah. Gerber is a well known knife company. They just happen to have the same name as the baby food company. Great company (the knife one), though. The Junior is pretty light weight.

Most knives won't tear through your gear from a glance. However, the tip of the blade is pretty sharp and could do some damage to a down jacket or sleeping bag.

Not layering when mountaineering is a fatal mistake. You need to regulate your temperature so you don't perspire and aren't cold. Everyone should know how to layer. I've used layering on chilly climbs, cold hikes, and at school 'cause I like wearing my leather jacket as a wind layer with a thin cotton layer underneath for warmth. If the class room is cold, I can keep the cotton on. If it's hot, it can come off.

Layering is loverly.

[Khendon Sevon]

So, I'm leaving this Saturday.

Just started to make my list of junk that I need to fit into my pack. It seems huge. I'm going to try finding a smaller stuff sack for my sleeping bag (too big!), shoving more in my first aid kit, and... you know... picking up my meds and whatnot.

Oh, I also have to buy some toiletries, duh. Add that to the list.

Packing Checklist
Clothing

o 3 pairs smartwool mountaineering socks
o 3 pairs smartwool hiking socks
o 2 pairs Patagonia synthetic underwear
o 1 pair Prana lightweight hiking pants
o 1 pair The Northface hardshell mountain pants
o 1 pair The Northface fleece pants
o 1 Patagonia Capaline 1 wicking layer t-shirt
o 1 Patagonia R-1 hoody
o 1 Mountain Hardwear Monkey Man Jacket
o 1 Mountain Hardwear Down Puff Jacket
o 1 Outdoor Research Zelot hardshell wind/snow/rain layer
o 1 Prana brimmed beanie
o 1 pair Black Diamond PolarTec stretch gloves (lines)
o 1 pair Black Diamond hardshell gloves
o 1 Buff (head wicking)
o 1 pair Outdoor Research gaiters

Footwear

o 1 pair Koflach Degre plastic mountaineering boots
o 1 pair Montrail Torre-GTX hiking boots
o 1 pair Black Diamond Sabertooth crampons (with crampon bag)

Other Mountain Gear

o 1 Black Diamond Raven Pro mountaineering axe
o 1 pair Julbo Explorer glacier glasses
o 1 bright orange trowel
o 1 Highgear Altimeter/Barometer/Compass watch
o 1 Mountain Hardware Lyell -15 down sleeping bag
o 1 old, battered Z-rest (before they made it orange and called it z-lite)

Hydration

o 1 Camelbak 3L Unbottle
o 2 Nalgene 1L HDPE narrow-mouth bottles

Illumination

o 1 Petzl Tikka-Plus (2 sets of fresh batteries)

Photography

o 1 Olympus Stylus 790SW (with charger)

Battling Boredom

o 40 gig iPod (with headphones)
o Charles Stross, Accelerando

First Aid (needs some modification)

o 1 ace bandage
o 1 roll medical tape
o 1 pair sharp scissors
o 1 tweezers
o 1 sterile ABD bandage
o 3 antiseptic towelettes
o 1 container advil
o 1 pair hypoallergenic gloves
o 2 absorbent sponge covers
o 2 povidone-iodine pads
o 3 triple antibiotic ointments
o 1 pad moleskin
o Various bandaids
o Non adhesive pads (need more of these)
o Accident report sheet
o 1 roll sterile gauze
o 1 small pencil
o 1 collection of safety pins
o 1 bright red carrying bag (water resistant)

Packs

o 1 CiloGear 45L Worksack
o 1 Salomon Raid 20 (17 L)

Cooking

o 1 Snow Peak 600 titanium mug
o 1 Snow Peak 900 titanium mug
o 1 Snow Peak titanium spork
o 1 pack of waterproof matches

Cutting

o 1 Gerber Junior

Food

o 3 freeze dried dinner meals (each serves 2 people)
o 1 pack of cinnamon raison bagels
o 1 box of nighttime tea (chamomile blend)
o 1 box of decaf green tea
o 1 big-old-bag of good-old-raisons-and-peanuts (GORP) (variant of this theme)
o 3 cup-of-noodles
o 3 packs of ramen
o 6 breakfast bars
o Handful of candy for morale booster

Drugs/Useful Junk

o 30 capsules Diamox to battle altitude sickness
o Badger Sleep Balm
o Burt’s Peppermint Lip Balm
o Duct-tape wrapped around my Nalgene

[Jeseth Cloak]

Good luck! Take a few pictures of scenery while you're there. :)

[Lilaena De'Ville]

I'll say good luck and not "break a leg!"

:) Have fun

[stevenvdb]

You are probably tired of hearing this from friends and family, but please be careful. :)

AND.

I just wanted to say, because of reading of your attempt and reading the stories of other forum members in the " Sick of Being Unfit and Overweight" thread, I have decided to make a commitment to try to walk the Appalachian Trail (http://www.fred.net/kathy/at.html) within the next few years.

I'm not overweight, but my physique isn't always one that inspires confidence. Right now I feel healthy, but my physical activity level has been lagging of late. I need to develope routines that will help promote lifelong health. :)

[Khendon Sevon]

Well, hiking is certainly a way to increase your health :) Plus, it's meditative and contemplative.

I love it. Adding a little excitement, helps, too (mountains, canyons, places other people dare not go).

I search for solitude and beauty.

Places to lose myself, if only for a moment.

The less people that have been there, the better.

You don't need to go to Everest to find near virgin soil, though (Everest has been rapped and pillaged, anyway). There are plenty of places everywhere.

/end babble

[Khendon Sevon]

By the by, thanks for all the "good lucks" :) I really appreciate it.

Like I've been saying, it's more likely that we'll have to rescue another group than need rescuing ourselves. We're all strong climbers with developed first aid skills and level heads in emergency situations.

Never the less, a little luck never hurts :)

I'm starting to put together all my gear for packing:

http://www.roxxu.com/linkedimages/orizaba/gear.jpg

[Ilias Nytrau]

Packing for camp six summers in a row with cadets was something I used to make an all-nighter of. Going away for ten weeks to live amongst concrete and dead vegetation was just oh-so-fun.

Man, you look organized. I envy you. G'luck.

[stevenvdb]

Going ultralight is certainly expensive... I was researching what I would need to pull a through trek of the AT.... it came to over $1000USD + for the very basics, not including food and other incidentals along the way.:twak It's amazing though, that it's possible with a little planning, that I can pack everything I would need (errr, you're obviously in a more extreme situation, so more might be needed :D ) in under 6 kilos, including my pack. ;) That's almost inspiring enough alone to make me want to set out and perhaps make a habit out of it. I'm a dad, though, with small child, so that will have to wait. :)

I've bit down and started collecting the gear, though, hopefully with a start date of February on next year for a partial hike of the AT.

Proper training is a must... I've started up my walking/hiking regime; hopefully I'll be up for it in a years time. ;)

I won't be hiking alone, that's for sure..I tried to help people in New Orleans as Hurricane Katrina hit, wound up being a refugee myself, when the levees overan... :o

[Khendon Sevon]

Yeah, ultralight is wonderful :)

So is being organized. It helps ensure I don't get to the summit and go "Gha! I forgot _____!!!!!!"

Going ultralight while mountaineering is insanely expensive. But, it's nice that I won't have to buy all of this gear again and most of it can be used on non-mountaineering trips.

JP and I are planning on tackling some smaller, more technical mountains after Orizaba (probably next year). This winter might see some weekend excursions to the Adirondacks for winter camping and all that wonderful stuff.

You can pack pretty light if you're going to be doing one or two week excursions in relatively predictable, non-cold weather (as with most of the AT). You also don't need that wide of a range of gear. It's lovely.

Though, the section of the AT that's in Maine (I believe) actually requires mountaineering. It starts at the summit of a mountain, I believe. I'd have to check my book. John has the climbed that particular mountain in winter (because he's like that).

Anyway, if you need someone for the NY/NJ sections or any area around there, let me know. I have the gear and know plenty of people willing and able.

Logistics is the most important part of the AT. You have to plan and cache properly and ensure that you're prepared for all the conditions you'll encounter.

I'd seriously recommend getting some intensive outdoor first aid training. I'm going to be going for Wilderness First Responder, myself. At the very least, you should get Wilderness First Aid certification.

[stevenvdb]

Based on your fairly light food allotment, unless you have another supply source, your itenerary seems to point to an assumed ascent completion of ... pretty soon, if not already. I don't know how well the view of the night sky is there where you are living, but certainly if the clouds and fog clear on your climb, you have been recieving a pleasant spectacle. :)

I've found an experienced hiker who is willing to help guide and put up with this naive person. :)
I will probably recieve some form of first-aide training this Summer, when I will have a bit of free time on my hands.

[Khendon Sevon]

Oh... man...

We had waaaaay too much food. But, I'll get to that another time.

For now, here's the teaser:

http://www.roxxu.com/linkedimages/orizaba/orizaba.jpg

That's the 18,500 ft summit shrouded in an uplifting of snow from the 3 PM winds. Taken at 14,000 feet.

[Byl Laprovik]

This is so awesome. I love when you post this stuff.

[Lilaena De'Ville]

Fantastic picture! So glad to hear you're home again safe and sound (I assume). :)

[Loklorien s'Ilancy]

Yeah!! Welcome back! (I think o_O ) :hug

[Khendon Sevon]

Haha. I'm glad to be home :)

The trip's story is really, really, really long. Luckily, I already wrote most of it in my head while sitting on a bus going to Mexico City.

I went through my pictures last night and pretty much covered every detail with my mom and it took a good hour of telling.

Maybe I'll start typing it up on the train ride back to school tonight.

Another teaser:

http://www.roxxu.com/linkedimages/orizaba/orizaba2.jpg
Orizaba as seen from 8,500 feet. On Sundays, the town that the climber's hostel is located in has a huge open air market.

[stevenvdb]

Bets are all closed. He lives!

Oooooooohhhhhhh lovely pictures.

[Khendon Sevon]

I'm still typing up a trip report. So, here's a less interesting teaser:

http://www.roxxu.com/linkedimages/orizaba/anotherteaser.jpg

I look so crazy... because... well.... I am.

[Droo]

Congratulations on a successful trip, mate. Those pictures are awesome - can't wait to see more. I have to say I envy you, I used to go on long cross country hikes during my Duke of Edinburgh Expedition days. The trips would last between three and five days, nothing but endless countryside and for someone who lives in the middle of a busy city, it was wonderful.

My true love of those trips were hills and mountains. The panoramic views you enjoy from such heights is breath-taking. So I can only imagine that what you do must feel awe-inspiring. I'm looking forward to reading your report, but when you get the chance, could you share how you got into this in the first place?

[Khendon Sevon]

I guess I never did post about the trip or any pictures.

Luckily, JP put all of our photos on his flickr account.

Photo's on John's camera: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jplikesbikes/sets/72157604034200134

Photo's on my camera:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jplikesbikes/sets/72157603789881989/